I picked up Cheesylove yesterday and I just couldn’t put her down. I swear fair isle is like crack for knitters. Once you start you need more and more. I finished the fair isle band and one side of the neckline:
In case you don’t remember, I’m making modifications to the top of the sweater. My version has raglan sleeves, and they’re going to be shorter. I still haven’t decided if I want to do short sleeves or 3/4 length.
I’m very happy with the way the ribbed raglan decreases came out. I read through many patterns before deciding on how to do them. In the armhole, I kept a K2 P1 K2 edge. So, whenever I decreased I did so under the innermost K2. Meaning, decrease rows went like this: K2 P1 K1, SSK, knit to last 6 sts, K2tog K1 P1 K2. This preserved a K2 P1 K2 edge throughout the armhole. I plan to do the same decreases on the sleeves.
On the body, I made the center 2 sts a K2. So, when it came time to split for the V neck, I had 1 knit stitch on either side of the neck. I did the same basic decreases as for the armholes, but with only one K on the end. Since I do not need to seam the neckline like I do the armhole, I slipped the neckline stitch on every WS side for a nice rolled edge. The neck looks like it will lay nice and flat without any need for finishing.
Oh, I think I made the neck/armhole an inch or two too long. But I’m going to finish up the body (or at least one side) and do a sleeve before I rip out. Even if I have to rip it won’t be much more to reknit – those last 10 rows go so quicklyl
One other thing I don’t think I’ve mentioned before. I slightly modified how the body is set up at the bottom. The instructions say to start with a K2 P1 rib, with markers before the K2 to indicate the sides. Instead, I moved the markers in a single stitch so they were between 2 knit sts – K1 pm K1 P1 K2. This way, the decreases were always symmetrical. See: